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The
Shih Tzu does not require as much grooming as some of the other
long-haired breeds, but they do have long hair and definitely
require regular grooming. If your life style does not allow time for
grooming, and you cannot afford to pay a professional groomer, then
a Shih Tzu may not the companion dog for you. The time, money and
effort that your spend on your Shih Tzu is well worth it and the
love you Shih Tzu returns to you is immeasurable. Shih Tzu are
beautiful, adoring, intelligent, delightful dogs, who will be loyal,
loving, and a member of your family for many years.
COAT
Shih Tzu change
coat at about 10 - 12 months of age. During this period, they mat
faster than you can brush, but keep brushing, the results are worth
the effort. This is a temporary situation that lasts about three
weeks to a month. Once the coat has changed grooming will be easier.
Soft cottony coats will tangle more quickly and require more care
than the silky type coat mentioned in the breed standard.
MATS
The most common
reason a mat occurs is dead hair that drops and becomes entangled in
the coat. Never bathe a matted dog without tending to the mats,
first. Dirty coats mats more easily, so be sure to bathe your dog at
least every two weeks, but ideally once a week. The likely areas for
a mat to form are around the neck and ears, underbelly area inside
the legs, and under the foot pads. Never pull or rip at a mat
because it will cause breakage. Would you do that to your hair? Use
a cap of cream conditioner in a spray bottle. Saturate the mat and
leave it for three minutes. Carefully separate the hairs with your
fingers, and the mat should fall out. Work from the end of the mat
backwards to the skin separating each little section and hair. It is
time consuming but you will save every little hair. If a mat is dense and has
significant loose hair entangled, saturate it with undiluted
conditioner, and let stand for three minutes. Use your fingers to
separate hairs. I also use a human detangling spray for
children which saves me hours of work with mats and tangles.
It just depends on which method you prefer.
BRUSH & COMB
To
grow and maintain a beautiful coat, you will need a soft brush with
flexible pins called a slicker, a rattail comb, a metal comb with wide and narrow teeth, a plastic pick--the kind with 8 or 9
teeth about 3 inches long. The amount of brushing required for an
adult coat depends on the texture of the coat--the more cottony
coats will require more brushing.
Never
brush a totally dry coat. This will cause breakage. Dampen the hair
slightly with a spray bottled filled with warm water and a capful of
cream conditioner or agin the humand detangling spray for children. The coat should be brushed out in layers from the
hair ends to the roots and working from the bottom up. Never rip at
the coat or lift the top of the brush away and up from the coat as
you reach the hair ends. This will cause the ends to weaken and
break. Instead, turn the brush into the coat and twist it downward.
Use your fingers or the long toothed pick to break up tangles that
the brush will not go through.
Begin
with the feet, legs, and belly, brushing upward to the skin. Pay
special attention to the areas inside the legs and around the neck
and ears where mats are more likely to form. Begin brushing the left
side, right side, working up to the top coat on the back. Use a rat
tail comb and part the coat from the nape of the neck to the root of
the tail. Brush out tail. Brush ruff, then comb the mustache and
below the ears. Pay special attention to the face and ears. Clean
the inside corners of the eyes with a dam washcloth or a piece of
cotton soaked in warm water. Use a comb on the mustache and below
the ears. Finish with the
topknot.
About
Shampooing - Coat Care and Keeping those whites white
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First things
first, brush, brush, brush, before every bath brush the coat
out, making sure you get all the way down to the skin, and
never leave even the tiniest matt or tangle, because if you
do, it will be a HUGE tangle and mat when the bath is
done. I have found that a good children's detangle is
a wonderful thing to use daily and before bathing to get
those tiresome mats and tangle out and keep them out.
Keeping a Shih Tzu' s whites white can be a challenge of
monumental proportions, but I think these tips will help
considerable. We use water bottles to for water. This
helps keep their faces and rough a little drier. We
also feed dry dog food kibble and small size kibble for
small breeds. Bottled water is also a help because some
waters are harder than others, and have certain minerals in
them that can cause discoloration. Minerals such as
iron, etc. Whitening is an ongoing grooming activity and
needs to be addressed every day with daily grooming/cleaning
and routine bathing.
Periodic bathing is very important. Everyone ask, how
often do I bath my puppy? I always tell them, when
they get dirty. I have found that when a puppy or dog
is dirty they need a bath. No one wants to be around a
smelly dirty dog, and since they are a part of your home and
family, you want it to be a positive experience for everyone
and not one that sends everyone shrieking and running from
the room when the dog or puppy enters. Bathe your dog as you
normally do using your shampoo of choice. I do use human
shampoo one my dogs, and then a good Whitener and brightener
shampoo secondly. If the whites are extremely dirty for some
reason (grass stains, rain, leaves, grit, sand, mud,
and salt (which can be toxic to your dog) from winter road
mixes, etc, etc., etc., in these instances be sure to use
extra shampoo and work it in really really well establishing
a thick lather and suds. You may have to re-wet the
puppy or dog a little in this process. (Always work the
shampoo from the body out in the direction of coat growth.
Going "against the grain" will result in a huge matted mess
you will regret, and I nor anyone else will have to explain
again! A fine "jet" stream from a spray bottle
will help get the shampoo deep into the coat before you
begin working it into a good lather. You can get a good
spray bottle at one of the Retail Super Stores, other retail
stores or beauty supply stores.
An extra heavy
shampooing such as should remove all the dirt and will go a
long way to helping remove some of the staining on the
white areas of the dog. Lather the dog and work the shampoo
in for about 8 - 10 minutes then rinse your dog really well
with warm water to ensure that all the shampoo is out and
the coat is again thoroughly wet down to the skin. Be sure
the water is not to hot and burn your little fur baby.
Check the temperature on the inside of your wrist. It should
be warm, but not hot or cold. Cold water tends to
close the hair follicle and "seal it up and hold the stains
in." The Shih Tzu's skin's are really water resistant and
will actually repel the water while the are being bathed
just as your skin is water repellent.
Step two is much
the same as the first except you want to use a brightening
and whitening shampoo. Using a dedicated
whitening shampoo made to remove stains and rewash the white
areas. There are multiple whitening shampoos from which to
choose. If you are using a dog shampoo for the regular
cleaning, chances are that the same company makes a
whitening shampoo and that should be your first try.
Whitening shampoo from the same brand name as the general
cleaning shampoo should ensure compatibility and prevent any
irritating or allergy triggering reactions. This is not
common, but it doe occasionally happen. Watch for
reddening skin, (more than usual with bathing, rashes, skin
scratch, etc.).
If, like me, you
use a good quality human shampoo (I particularly like the
Aussie products available at most retailers) for regular
bathing, try any whitening shampoo as your first choice. I
have had particular success with Cardinal Gold Medal Blue
Diamond Shampoo available at Petsmart and the Coat Handler
brand of shampoo available online at Cherry Brook.
There is a link to it on my hot links page. Also Pet Edge
offers a wonderful selection of shampoos and certain ones
will work better for the stains your puppy or dog gets. (It
never ceases to amaze me that a blue shampoo can make things
brilliantly white.) Apply the shampoo and work it in
thoroughly and in accordance with directions let it sit for
a time. Cardinal recommends 5-10 minutes, I give it 10
minutes and often 12-15 for particularly stubborn stains.
Once it has "processed" for the recommended time rinse the
coat clear of shampoo and complete the bathing with a good
conditioning treatment. I also use a good human leave in
conditioner that I mist on just before blow drying. (The
whites can be conditioned as they are naturally a softer
coat texture than the grizzle but be careful not to soften
the grizzle coat if you are showing. The grizzle coat is
what gives the Shih Tzu coat that Poof! If you don't show
your dog and you like a softer coat you can condition the
grizzle just like the white.)
Make sure the
coat is thoroughly dried before letting your now clean Shih
Tzu loose. A wet coat will stain incredibly quickly and
those stains set in more stubbornly and quickly if the
coat is wet when he stain happens.
Taking the time for daily whitening can be accomplished in
short order and goes along way in keeping pristine coat.
Around the face and beard area which typically gets very wet
while drinking and stays at least damp the white beard can
stain from pink to a dark brown depending on how "wet
mouthed" the dog is, how much water he/she gets and how
sloppy an eater he/she is. After brushing out the beard and
affected upper chest area the coat can be sprayed with a
hydrogen peroxide or lemon water solution. I like the
peroxide for speed and "intensity" of results. Be cautious
though not to wet the coat down to the skin as peroxide will
dry the skin and may even cause burning if enough gets on
the skin directly, especially if there is food debris or
dirt on the skin with which it will react. If this occurs
immediately rinse you pet with cool water until all shampoo
or peroxide is gone. Generally about 8 - 10 minutes.
CAUTION, DO NOT get this in
your dog or puppy's eyes! Once
the peroxide has finished processing with the protein part
of the stain (foaming and heating stops) rinse the area with
a damp face cloth and dry thoroughly. The beard will now be
free of food debris and much whiter than when you started.
If the coat is not quite dry enough corn starch is a good
additive. I use the Cornstarch baby powder, and you can
apply it with a makeup brush or small eyebrow brush. It both
dries any remaining moisture and whitens the hair.
Another more
subtle method is baking soda mixed with a small amount
of water to make a paste and then rub into the stained
white areas willassist in the removal of some stains. This
will not be as ultimately effective in removing large or
dark stains as the peroxide, but it is gentler to the coat
and less drying to the skin. As well this mixture will not
heat up like the peroxide, but again it is less effective.
Also available
if the coat is essentially clean are a variety of chalks
and/ corn starch are available where you purchase show
supplies. (Cherry Brook) These are specific blends of chalks
ground to very specific consistency for use in the show
ring. They have no cleaning properties at all but
cover up or mask stains. Also a little mink oil spray
available at most retail stores in the shampoo sections
gives them that "Show Glow"! Use sparingly or you will
have a oily coat!
Of course a pound of prevention is far better than cure than
trying to correct the problem afterwards. By limiting your
dog's access to outside factors such as mud, rain, grass,
etc. you will substantially help in keeping him/her bright,
white and clean, but after all they are dogs and they love
to be outside and play and by the perverse laws of
fate, which guide children and dogs they are only interested
in these things when freshly bathed! Once our little
beauties are dirty again these items are of absolutely
no interest whatsoever to them and they will disdainful walk
around them or refuse to walk in them at all and insist on
being carried!
Water bottles
for water are a huge help as well, as is feeding dry kibble
instead of wet canned foods. Bottled water without minerals
and additives is also a help.
I hope this
helps you with all of your coat questions and helps you with
bathing your Shih Tzu. Here is a list of the product I
have mentioned and general places they can be found.
1. Regular
Shampoo - Human or Dog
2. Whitener
Brightener Shampoo - Pet Shampoo
3. Conditoner -
Human or Dog
4. Leave In
Conditioner - Human
5 . Detangling
Spray - Human Children
6. Mink Oil
Spray
7. Spray bottles
8. Pin Brush
9. Slicker Brush
10. Rat Tailed
Comb
11. Metal Comb
with both wide and narrow teeth
12. Plastic hair
pick
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